Shrines, Temples, and Yu-dofu (oh yes, and teaching)

Tuesday morning we went early to Kitano-Tenman-gu, a 1oth century shrine, for the antiques/flea market that takes place on the 25th of every month to commemorate the poet and scholar Sugawara Michizane.

The beautiful grounds are taken over by hundreds of booths selling everything from old kimono to fish. At the same time, towards the back of the shrine grounds, monks are chanting and rushing around to make it to meditation.

That evening (6-7:30), I taught my first class. I have 18 students, 9 enrolled and 9 auditing. I can tell that they are reluctant to speak English so I began class by saying "Watashi wa amerika jin des. Nihongo ga scossi wa ka ri mas. Demo mata ju zu ja a ri masen (I am American. I understand a little Japanese. But I am not very good at it yet). My terrible Japanese put them somewhat at ease about trying English. They each introduced themselves and said a little about themselves. Many said "My English is not so good, but I will try my best." "I will try my best" seems to be a theme for these students and it's a wonderful teaching atmosphere. Last night, Wednesday, I taught the second class and afterwards I invited the students to join me in the cafeteria for the "American Law table" where they could practice their English and ask questions about the class. About 10 students came and they were relaxed and delightful. They told me lots of things about themselves and about Japanese culture. They told me my Japanese was good (!!) and so I said everything I knew how to say in Japanese and they corrected me and taught me a few new things like i-ta-da-ki-mas, a kind of grace before eating that everyone says.

Today, Thursday, Bill and I went to two of the top attractions in Kyoto, both quite close to our apartment: Kinkaku-ji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion) and Ryoan-ji (Temple of the Peaceful Dragon). The Golden Pavilion was built in the 14th century by Shogun Yoshimitsu Ashikaga as his retirement "cottage."

I'm running out of superlatives for these places--I am truly at a loss for words to describe the beauty and the peacefulness. I've decided to stop saying "the most beautiful . . . ." and embrace some Zen silence. The pictures don't do the spaces justice but they will have to speak for themselves.



Ryoan-ji is most famous for its Zen rock garden, 15 rocks set on white gravel. The walls around the garden are made of clay boiled in oil. As time went by, the oil seeped out and created the design. In the Buddhist tradition, 15 symbolizes completion. As you sit along the garden, you can never see all 15 stones at once: completion is not possible but always somehow present.

The rest of Ryoan-ji grounds are astonishing. We stopped to eat in a small secluded restaurant that served only one thing--Yu-dofu (boiled soy bean curd with vegetables). Yes, Bill ate Yu-dofu, and even found it delicious. You dip the custard like squares (like tofu) in soy sauce and ginger.