Saturday, May 29, 2010

Our favorite spot in Kyoto














We think we found our favorite spot in Kyoto - quite by accident. We went over to Myoshin-ji to see the dragon painting but couldn't get in the big temple because something else was going on. But I saw a sign for a rock garden so we went in another temple, Taizo-in (remember that Myosin-ji has 47 temples). Taizo-in is the oldest of the subordinate temples at Myoshin-ji. The pictures show a little of what we found inside. Several Zen rock gardens and the middle garden by which we sat for a long time. Everything feels perfectly in place yet it's not a usual kind of symmetry. It gets inside you, though. At first, it makes you stand and stare - or sit and stare. And then it works its way quietly into deep parts of you.
I found the statue fascinating - I don't know who he is yet (maybe just another Buddha), but he's holding a child and other children are climbing up around him. He seems to be a Buddhist version of a mother goddess and the statue seemed so similar in kind to all the ones of Mary found in Catholic churches. The iconic painting for Taizo-in is a beautiful little scene called "Catching Cat-fish with a Gourd," painted by Josetsu who is considered the founder of the school of summie (black ank and white) painting in Japan.

Best of all, Taizo-in is minutes away from our apartment so we can go there often.

Below is an example of a small shop on the street near us that leads to Myoshin-ji. This one, obviously, sells beans. There are many small shops, many of which sell one thing - beans, or tatami mats, or meat , or vegetables, or umbrellas. I love the picture - Bill is reflected on his bicycle behind the beans.
Then my birthday dinner. We biked over (far) to Pontocho to the restaurant, Misogui-gawa. We were led through tatami covered hallways to a porch over the river and seated on the floor. The restaurant features a French version of the Japanese kaiseki style meal, which is many small, beautifully arranged dishes.
There were four servings of appetizers, little elegant bowls of a few items served in exquisitely delicate sauces. The foie-gras was the best I have ever had anywhere, even in France.


I know, foie-gras in a Japanese restuarant! The food was a fusion of French and Japanese, so each little serving was a surprise. Scallops and Japanese beef and lamb were the "entrees," but even these were small little slices, cut to accommodate chopsticks. Near the end of this wonderful meal, the chef came to speak with us, kneeling down so we would be eye-level. I tried to speak some French with him, but only a few phrases came to me from my past (he is Japanese but speaks fluent French). Fortunately, he had one of the many serving girls with him. All of them spoke excellent English. His pride in his work was very evident and engaging. He engaged us for quite some time, asking us which of the dishes we had liked best. How on earth to choose from among some of the best food we have ever had! At dessert, six of the serving girls came into our private room (by now we had moved from the roof). They formed a "choir" and sang "Happy birthday" to Terry. Great fun to end a perfect day.

1 comment:

  1. Happy Birthday Terry! Looks like a wonderful dinner. We are enjoying the blog so much and the pictures are incredible. I want to make a painting of every one of them. Emerson really liked the Buddha at Nara. Thanks for posting so generously of your adventure!

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