"In order to comprehend the beauty of a Japanese garden, it is necessary to understand ... the beauty of stones." Lafcadio Hearn
We did eat lunch inside the temple compound in a place reputed to serve authentic Zen temple food, just like the monks eat. Lots of tofu and vegetables, a small glass of plum wine, all very delicious. But the place--Izusen--oddly felt a bit commercial. We much preferred the Yu-dofu experience at Ryoan-ji last week. Those of you who know Bill must think that some clone Bill who eats tofu and vegetables has replaced the Bill we all know and love. But it's the real one (I think) going all Zen about food. That's the room in which we ate--sitting on the floor. In fact, speaking of the floor (Bill here, not the clone) when we sat down, the two women who were going to serve the many courses, immediately asked me if I wanted a "chair." It took me a while to understand the word, but when I did understand their offer I wasn't sure whether to be flattered by their typical Japanese attentiveness or worried about what I must look like to them. Of course, my pride refused the offer of a "chair," but they did insist on two cushions. Terry, then, became my food taster for what turned out to be a very nice vegetarian lunch. (Terry--"Food taster" means I take a bite of whatever form the tofu is in and pronounce that Bill will like it.)
The beauty of stones / The breaking sound of silence / Waves on quiet shore. (TGP)
Today we rode our bikes north to Daitoku-ji, a walled temple complex of 24 sub-temples that is a holy place for the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. We visited the 4 open-to-the-public sub-temples: Daisen- ji, Koutou-in, Zuihou-in, and Ryogen-in. Each has a central temple surrounded by Zen gardens - dry gardens and moss gardens. We took off our shoes, walked through the tatami-covered rooms, bowed to the statue of Buddha, and sat --- and sat. The gardens invite silence and meditation. These short visits ended up taking us hours because, well, we just sat and looked. I could tell you what they all are supposed to mean, but what's the point? The meaning goes beyond language and disappears into silence.
Today we rode our bikes north to Daitoku-ji, a walled temple complex of 24 sub-temples that is a holy place for the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. We visited the 4 open-to-the-public sub-temples: Daisen- ji, Koutou-in, Zuihou-in, and Ryogen-in. Each has a central temple surrounded by Zen gardens - dry gardens and moss gardens. We took off our shoes, walked through the tatami-covered rooms, bowed to the statue of Buddha, and sat --- and sat. The gardens invite silence and meditation. These short visits ended up taking us hours because, well, we just sat and looked. I could tell you what they all are supposed to mean, but what's the point? The meaning goes beyond language and disappears into silence.
We did eat lunch inside the temple compound in a place reputed to serve authentic Zen temple food, just like the monks eat. Lots of tofu and vegetables, a small glass of plum wine, all very delicious. But the place--Izusen--oddly felt a bit commercial. We much preferred the Yu-dofu experience at Ryoan-ji last week. Those of you who know Bill must think that some clone Bill who eats tofu and vegetables has replaced the Bill we all know and love. But it's the real one (I think) going all Zen about food. That's the room in which we ate--sitting on the floor. In fact, speaking of the floor (Bill here, not the clone) when we sat down, the two women who were going to serve the many courses, immediately asked me if I wanted a "chair." It took me a while to understand the word, but when I did understand their offer I wasn't sure whether to be flattered by their typical Japanese attentiveness or worried about what I must look like to them. Of course, my pride refused the offer of a "chair," but they did insist on two cushions. Terry, then, became my food taster for what turned out to be a very nice vegetarian lunch. (Terry--"Food taster" means I take a bite of whatever form the tofu is in and pronounce that Bill will like it.)
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